¶ Hello! It's young Dedalus! What's up? ¶ The sky is up…

9 July 2017

Temple Bar & Ha'penny Bridge


Turk's Head Chop House est. 1760 (previously The Parliament Inn) Bar and restaurant
Temple Bar is an old area redeveloped with the tourists in mind, so, avoiding the tourism scam as much as possible, I didn’t explore it in depth.
Although, one has to eat and Temple Bar offers plenty of choices. So I did take a few photos, mostly on Parliament Street.

The Temple Bar area had a completely different feel from when I used to visit Dublin more regularly in the 1990s; I didn’t see many cobbled streets, and no old bookshops or record stores, nor bohemian and alternative outlets, but rather, many sleek places, “pop culture” “cult entertainment,” “galleries,” “cocktail menus,” cafés, expensive food…
This “Cultural Quarter” now includes weekly markets: on Saturday afternoon, the Designer Mart (on Cow’s Lane) and the Food Market  (Meeting House Square); on Saturday and Sunday, the Book Market and music stuff (Temple Bar Square)… so that is where one buys old stuff at premium prices (or “vintage”).










I tried to save on space by taken only one picture of the-nice-shop-front-with-the-reflections-of-the-bicycles-and-the-statue-in-the-window-beside-the-granite-milestone-or-is-it-a-litter-bin-I-don’t-know…
The statue is a small version of a large monument situated on Lower Abbey Street, at the Irish Life Centre (assurance and pension company) – not in Temple Bar (1 km away).
It is called Chariot of Life. It was unveiled in 1982, the year following the death of its author, sculptor Oisín Kelly (born in Dublin). The sculpture is made of copper and bronze and represents Reason controlling Emotions.






< This is the back of Smock Alley Theatre (1662) which was a church between 1885 and 1989 and is now the theatre once more (http://picturesofdubhlinn.blogspot.co.uk/2017/07/fishamble-street-christ-church-cathedral.html)
Artwork called Cloud Star Boat Map, below a glass footbridge linking Smock Alley Theatre to the Gaiety School of Acting / National Theatre School of Ireland, on Essex Street West. In 1997, the Irish artist, Grace Weir, had been commissioned to create a piece for the then-new Viking Centre, which closed and has been replaced by Dubliana. The large piece depicts a Viking longboat over a map which mixes nautical chart style with astronomical words such as Andromeda, Orion and Pegasus. I think it’s quite nice. The line drawing was carved into the concrete so it has a textured quality.

To get to O’Connell Bridge (next post), I preferred walking along the river, where the street’s name keeps changing: Wellington Quay, Crampton Quay, Aston Quay.

<
This large and unusual looking building on Essex Quay is a protected structure. It is used by a solicitors firm. There are quite a few of them around here, so near the Four Courts.
The building is called Sunlight Chambers. The architect was Englishman Edward Ould. Built in 1899 in Italianate style with wide overhanging eaves. Each level has a different style of window. The medallions/tondos are really nice.
The most surprising features are the colourful friezes. They are illustrating the history of hygiene, although the top one seems to depict various hard jobs (farming, building, boat making) the types that make one very dirty.
The building was originally designed for William Lever (1851-1925) of Lever Brothers, the soap-making company – he had started the business by manufacturing Sunlight Soap.
I am not sure why there was the need for these headquarter offices in Dublin, but when Lever took the Daily Mail to court for libel (about financial manoeuvring), he chose Dubliner Edward Carson (who caused Oscar Wilde to go to jail) as his lawyer and the defence capitulated the day after it all started.
Lever was big on advertising and this façade must have been seen as a marketing tool. I guess Lever also washed his hands of the forced labour used in Africa for getting cheap palm oil…












< Ornate cast iron lamp standard on Grattan Bridge, featuring the mythical half-horse and half-fish hippocampus.
Named after Henry Grattan (1746-1820) an Irish politician., this stone bridge was built in 1755, where the Essex Bridge had collapsed. It was widened in 1872 with cast iron supports and supposedly modelled on Westminster Bridge in London (http://gherkinscall.blogspot.co.uk/2016/10/westminster-bridge.html)


I don’t know how many bridges in the world are called Millennium Bridge, but this might be the least eventful one! Installed in December 1999. Steel and concrete. One span pedestrian footbridge. One photo was plenty.
The Millennium Bridge is less than 200 metres from the 211-year-old Ha’penny Bridge.
In 2013, Dublin City Council removed 300 kg of padlocks off the two footbridges: Ha’penny and Millennium bridges.





Ha’penny Bridge (1816) is a one span footbridge, in cast iron.

First named the Wellington Bridge after the Duke of Wellington who was born in Dublin, it was then known as the Liffey Bridge – which is still its official name in Irish "Droichead na Life".
Ha'penny Bridge, Liberty Hall tower and the dome of Custom House
The bridge was constructed because the ferries used to cross the rivers were considered unsafe, and a toll of half a penny, matching the cost of using the ferry, was put in place for using the bridge. Although that was supposed to be only for 100 years, it lasted until 1919 and the cost had been increased to 1½  pence…
Nowadays, over 20,000 people use the bridge every day. It was dismantled, rebuilt and strengthened by Harland & Wolff of Belfast in 2001 and reopened a few days before Christmas when the foot traffic had been estimated to increase to 300,000…

One of the three lamps is slightly kinked… drunk seagull?